Sewing a Center Seam Zipper

Avoiding Zipper Hell, Part I

I wanted to do one zipper blog.  I never thought about zippers that much, but have learned that there are more steps than I paid attention to.  No wonder people do videos!  Since this is not an option, and since I have not liked much of what I've seen, I'm going to break this up and start with the zipper most sewers know; the Center Zipper.

Things a center zipper is appropriate for: pockets, design elements, front zips.

Things a center zipper is not appropriate for:  smack dab in the center back of a nice dress or skirt, any side zip (In spite of what they did in the '40's).  Nothing says "Home Made" like this zipper in the back.  The real difference between handmade and home made is little details and this is the most noticeable one.  I'm here to help you make better zipper application choices, then show you how to do it.

Sewing Tip #1: It matter less that you do it 'right' and more that you do it consistently.  That way, you know what you did and can make workable changes when things don't turn out quite the way you wanted them to.

Sewing Tip #2: Check - Your - Work.  It's better to spend 2 seconds checking that you are happy with the step you just completed than to discover at the end that you are unhappy with the work done at step 2.  In zippers there are plenty of little steps.

Sewing Tip #3:  Be aware of your material, perhaps test a scrap.  In this case I mean that pins play a big part of how I put in zippers and not all materials can be pinned without consequence.  The biggest one that comes to mind is leather.  Included in this class, though, is Ultrasuede and vinyl.  Every hole is permanent.  Silk charmeuse also shows every hole.  Pins need to remain in the seam allowances for any silk and most satins.  So, for silk charmeuse, I would recommend an invisible zipper or a different kind of closure, completely.

Sewing tip #4:  A brand new needle will fix most stitch problems.  Most of the remaining problems can be fixed by re-threading the machine.  Do it this way when you are having troubles: snip the thread near the spool.  Then, reach down near the needle (or lack of needle =D ) and pull the thread out of the machine  in this direction.  This keeps little lint balls from being dragged into even more difficult places.  The goal is too keep your machine out of the shop ($$).

An important note is that I used a difficult fabric and garish colors on purpose.  This is a crepe backed satin which is very drapey and slithery, and the colors help to show detail.  I wanted to encounter every problem I could in order to help you avoid those very issues.  Stable fabrics can have no interfacing at all in the zipper construction, though if you are using a very nice fabric for a very nice dress, I recommend using a light interfacing anyway, just for the most professional results.

Forgive me, please.  I started off with the center zipper thinking this was going to be quick.  I did not finish edges on this one and was not as careful with the interfacings as I was later.

There are two identical pieces of fusible interfacing on the wrong side of each side where the zipper will go.  These are slightly longer than the zipper and will keep the slithery fabric from shifting around.  They should also be about 1" wide for a 5/8" seam allowance.  This is just enough to extend past the seam allowance and hold things stable as you go around the zipper.  Note the rounded corners: they show less than sharp ones on the right side

Put the fabric, right sides together and pin.  Lay the zipper on top.  I've lined up the top flanges with the raw edge to allow enough room for a seam allowance and a hook at the top.  Your own application may be different.  The important part is that you know how you want the zipper in the garment and you mark right above where the metal zipper stop is.  I used two red headed pins to mark that.  Remove the zipper and using a large basting stitch, stitch from the top down to the mark.  Stop.  Change/shorten your stitch length to the one you normally use and tack back and forth to hold the thread.  This will be the bottom of your zipper.  Continue on to the bottom of that seam and finish that off.

Here is the finished step with the basting above the circle, the regular stitching below the circle, and the back and forth tacking in the circle. 

Press open the seam and put a mark or pin showing where the zipper bottom tack is. 

 

Attach your zipper foot and position your needle to be a little inside the edge of the foot. You want to be close, but if you get too close the zipper won't work.

 

Lay the zipper down and flip the zipper tab up. The top of the zipper is going to do what it is going to do.  Let it.  Center the tab and pin the zipper flanges down leaving the rest of the zipper free. 

  

 

Before starting to sew, remember, Do not sew over pins when inserting a zipper.  I sew over pins all the time, but in zipper applications I find that the pin causes the fabrics to move more, not less, than if the pin is removed just before you go over it.  So, at the top right flange, put the sewing foot down (pin will be underneath) and remove the pin before starting to sew.  Go carefully and closely near the tab and make a smooth line as you get closer to the coil.  You can start on the other flange if that works better for you.

 

I marked the center seam only to make it easier to see.  I use both hands and center the coil over the seam and sew no more than one inch at a time before lifting up the zipper and repositioning the coil.

When you get to where the mark where you tacked and changed stitch lengths, put the needle down and turn to go straight across the coil.  If you have a bad time with jamming or needle breakage, here at the coil, use a  brand new, slightly larger needle. Use your best judgment to decide how far over to go, put the needle down and turn the garment so you can sew back up the zipper.  It should look a lot like this.

 Here is the sewn zipper from the right side of the fabric, before removing the basting.  Lightly press using a press cloth to settle everything before stitches aren't holding every thing in the right place.

 Cut the basting stitches carefully and remove the threads.  I find a pair of tweezers makes the job quicker and easier.

Voila!  One center seam zipper with an open top. 

Something nice that can be done with this style of zipper closure, since you see the zipper, is to use an exciting zipper like these (and there are more, just go looking!)  A parka application would show it more, but a little peek-a-boo sparkle can be a nice touch.  A simple contrast in color would be another way to use this as a design element as well as a closure.

While many places carry similar zippers to these, I got this image from  Stan's Sewing Supplies,

http://www.stanssewingsupplies.com/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=4954463
(No, I do not receive any money for the plug, just wanted to give the credit where it was due for the image)

The next blog is a continuation of this one (too many photos, I guess =D); Using the Center Seam Zipper style for a pocket.

Let the next adventure begin!