Closed Ended Lap Zipper On A Curve

Avoiding Zipper Hell Part V

One doesn't have to use a closed ended lap zipper on a curved seam, it can also be used on a straight seam.  Mostly I wanted to take care of two concepts at one time.  I'm getting pretty behind on my work =)

This zipper is appropriate for: side seam zipper applications, center back or front applications, and purse/handbag applications.

This zipper is not appropriate for: any application where the top or bottom needs to open, leather or leather like materials where every hole is permanent.

Sewing Tip #1: It matter less that you do it 'right' and more that you do it consistently.  That way, you know what you did and can make workable changes when things don't turn out quite the way you wanted them to.

Sewing Tip #2: Check - Your - Work.  It's better to spend 2 seconds checking that you are happy with the step you just completed than to discover at the end that you are unhappy with the work done at step 2.  In zippers there are plenty of little steps.

Sewing Tip #3:  Be aware of your material, perhaps test a scrap.  In this case I mean that pins play a big part of how I put in zippers and not all materials can be pinned without consequence.  The biggest one that comes to mind is leather.  Included in this class, though, is Ultrasuede and vinyl.  Every hole is permanent.  Silk charmeuse also shows every hole.  Pins need to remain in the seam allowances for any silk and most satins.  So, for silk charmeuse, I would recommend an invisible zipper or a different kind of closure, completely.

Sewing tip #4:  A brand new needle will fix most stitch problems.  Most of the remaining problems can be fixed by re-threading the machine.  Do it this way when you are having troubles: snip the thread near the spool.  Then, reach down near the needle (or lack of needle =D ) and pull the thread out of the machine  in this direction.  This keeps little lint balls from being dragged into even more difficult places.  The goal is too keep your machine out of the shop ($$).

 Here is the wrong side of two opposite/identical pieces of fabric, just like you have when you cut out a pattern.  Again, this is the slithery, drapey, difficult stuff I've been using all along.  Already I have fused a matching piece of interfacing a little longer than my zipper and 1 1/2" wide.  I make my  grown up daughter corsets and I use this zipper application for the very curved sides.  Without the minor changes for a curve, the flap of the zipper often flips up.  This is solvable by doing what I'm showing here, or just putting a hook and loop at the waist.  I'm doing this zipper with a 5/8" seam allowance because this is how the pattern would be cut out unless you cut every piece separately--ugh!  What a pain. 

As some insurance, I will be using, and recommend using, a seam extender just on the lap side.  From top to bottom, left to right there is (white package) plain hem tape, white satin ribbon, yellow grosgrain ribbon, blue fusible hem tape showing the two fusible strips stripped off, and pink seam binding. (ANCIENT; don't look for this packaging!)  The hem tapes and seam binding are the thinnest and best, but if you have to get ribbon to get a color match that would be fine.  Just be aware that the ribbons are bulkier than the tapes, in case that is important.

Here I have used the serger (zig zag or seam binding will do) to finish the edge as if for an unlined garment . If you are lining, skip the edge finish.  The edges were pinned up with the fabric flat to keep the sides from stretching unequally, and the location of the top and bottom of the zipper are marked with red headed pins and red wash out marking pencil (I love that stuff!)

One can start at the top or the bottom, just do the regular stitch until reaching the first mark, backtack, change to a basting stitch and sew until the second mark is reached, change to the regular stitch, backtack and finish the seam.

Curves must be clipped in order to lay flat, but those seam allowances are important, so make short clips, no more than 1/4" deep and use lots of them.  I used my serger line as a guide, then pressed the seam flat.  If the seam won't lay down, do a clip or two more until it will.

The last thing I want to do is finish this zipper and find that my clips extended into the lap and there are fuzzy, nasty threads that look bad and interfere with the zipper.  Hence the seam extender mentioned above.  Using my serged edge as a guide, I zigzagged with a narrow stitch, only onto the lap side seam allowance, making sure the ends of my clips were all covered. Yes, it will ripple a bit.  This is why the very thin hem tape or seam binding is preferred.

Again, press it open.  Make sure there are no serious ripples that will end up showing on the other side.

Mark where the end tacks are located.  I've used red head pins.  Then pin all the fabric except the one seam allowance out of the way.

Line up the center coil with the center, basted seam.  I never take the time to pin my bottom flanges like this, it just shows what is going on better in the photo.  Pin your zipper in place and put on your zipper foot.

This photo is just to show the needle position within the zipper foot.  Set the needle just a little inside the foot.  That little space will be necessary for the second stitch line.

Make sure the coil lines up and then sew about one inch at a time, re lining up the coil each time. 

Feel free to call me obsessive, but unzip the zipper to make sure it works.  I made the mistake of not checking one time when I should have.  I had to rip out a lot of stitches.  It just isn't worth it.

Now tuck the seam allowance you just sewed the zipper onto to the other side and pin this down with the rest of the fabric.  This will flatten out the zipper with the right side up.  This will also leave just the free zipper side to the right.  Stitch along this little area between the basted center seam and where the seam allowance is sewn to the zipper.  This will keep things nice and flat.

To try to clarify where each bit of fabric is.....

As you approach the zipper tab, put the needle down, raise the presser foot and nudge the tab down so you can finish stitching to about the top stop.

At this point you've probably guessed the next step.  Press the zipper gently and check both sides to be sure all is well. Avoid the tab area.

Looking good =)

This photo shows several steps.  Sew the lap side of the zipper to just it's seam allowance.  I decided to slightly straighten the crook where the zipper tab is. On the left end of the zipper, right 'above' the zipper tab take a few hand stitches around the inner top flanges to hold them together nicely for the next step.  The right side still has no stitching on it. Put pins at either end of zipper where the tacks are.

 Flip the fabric over.  Mark where the end tacks are.  Pin the fabric and zipper so nothing can shift.

Find where the coils are and mark with pins.  Then figure out which one is the farthest from the basted seam and use that measurement to mark a parallel line from end to end.  Make a mark or mental note where the zipper tab is.

Check each mark to make sure it is clear of the zipper coil.  My finger is at the zipper tab.

Nearly done!  Start sewing at the intersection of the bottom mark and the basted seam.  Put the needle down, turn the corner and sew right along the marks until you approach the zipper tab. 

Near the tab, put the needle down, raise the presser foot and undo at least some of the basted seam.

Here  you see the zipper tab pulled down.  

 Having been burned on the other lap zipper, I recommend double checking the location of the top zipper stop.  Here I've slipped a pin next to the stop and all the way through the fabric.

The pin is right on the marked line.  Yay!  Continue sewing, put the needle down at the corner of the end, turn and finish off the end right at the basted seam.  Snip threads, open up the seam, and I use tweezers, get rid of thread bits so they don't clog the zipper or look bad.

 Here is the zipper from the closed, or front side.  Nice and smooth!

 Here is the zipper from the open, or back, side.  It's amazing what it would look like with a zipper and thread that matched the fabric!

You can just see the smallest bit of zig zagging and seam binding way inside the zipper lap.  Even if you cannot match the color perfectly, no one will ever know.  Without this, though, the clipped points would be visibly fraying.

I love success!