Open Top Lap Zipper Part I

Avoiding Zipper Hell Part III

When this section gets overloaded with photos I will start a new section, bear with me!  I am posting the sewing tips yet again, so each part can be viewed independently.

This zipper is appropriate for: neckline applications, skirt applications, trouser (back or side) applications, jackets, blouses or sweater fronts.

This zipper is not appropriate for: leather/ultrasuede/vinyl/plastic application (pins!  See alternate open top lap zipper for leather), trouser front applications, side zippers (see closed ended lap zipper for side zippers)

Sewing Tip #1: It matter less that you do it 'right' and more that you do it consistently.  That way, you know what you did and can make workable changes when things don't turn out quite the way you wanted them to.

Sewing Tip #2: Check - Your - Work.  It's better to spend 2 seconds checking that you are happy with the step you just completed than to discover at the end that you are unhappy with the work done at step 2.  In zippers there are plenty of little steps.

Sewing Tip #3:  Be aware of your material, perhaps test a scrap.  In this case I mean that pins play a big part of how I put in zippers and not all materials can be pinned without consequence.  The biggest one that comes to mind is leather.  Included in this class, though, is Ultrasuede and vinyl.  Every hole is permanent.  Silk charmeuse also shows every hole.  Pins need to remain in the seam allowances for any silk and most satins.  So, for silk charmeuse, I would recommend an invisible zipper or a different kind of closure, completely.

Sewing tip #4:  A brand new needle will fix most stitch problems.  Most of the remaining problems can be fixed by re-threading the machine.  Do it this way when you are having troubles: snip the thread near the spool.  Then, reach down near the needle (or lack of needle =D ) and pull the thread out of the machine  in this direction.  This keeps little lint balls from being dragged into even more difficult places.  The goal is too keep your machine out of the shop ($$).

Again, this is just a sample not a real garment, which means only the important bits are done.  So Let's Start!

Here is the green, slithery and drapey fabric with the 'lining' already put in at the 'neckline', and, like a regular neckline or finished waist, this is stabilized with interfacing.  That upper seam is understitched for the smoothest roll to the inside.  On the right I have a piece of interfacing a little longer than my zipper and about 1 1/2" wide.  A very stable fabric would not need this piece of interfacing.  I will treat this side as one piece to show that way of dealing with this zipper and a lining.  On the left there is no interfacing as there will be two close lines of stitching and I have not found a need to interface this side.  Also, I will use this left side to show a different way of dealing with a lining.

 If using a 1" seam allowance is not an option, any thin tape or ribbon can be used to extend the lap side, or, as you will see later, tidy up an unruly zipper flange.  Left to right and top to bottom are plain hem tape, satin ribbon, grosgrain ribbon, iron on hem tape showing how the iron on strips can be easily stripped from the fabric, and seam binding.  All these are thin and have finished edges.

Since open topped lap zippers are appropriate for neckline applications and trousers without waistbands, I have made a 'finished' top like you would likely be dealing with.  Of course, if you are having a band above the lap zipper (a lap zipper on trousers with a waistband comes to mind), of course, leave the edges raw.  Again, I am choosing the difficult option for the best learning experience. The  left side ,which I will be treating the fabric and lining as one piece, has the edge finished, in this case, with a serger.  Zigzagging or covering with seam binding are two other options for finishing this edge.

Since I recommend a 1" seam allowance for a lap zipper I lined up the top edges of the 'garment', measured in 1" and put a pin in sideways.  Thick fabric often shifts when a pin goes in and this area must be spot on.  After this sideways pin is in, then I run a pin top to bottom,  then remove the sideways pin.

Check how the tops line up.  The seam allowances are pinned out of the way to make seeing the center easier in the photograph.  When you are checking, holding the seam allowances out of the way with your fingers is sufficient.

Lay the fabric flat on a table and pin the sides together.  On the left the lining is out of the way and free of the pins.  Since it was caught in the pins in the photo a little above, just carefully put in pins before removing the one used to check that the top matched.  I do this flat so neither side is inclined to stretch more than the other, giving a better zipper finish. 

Next it's time to lay the zipper down and mark the location of the bottom tack, just above the bottom zipper stop.  Once marked, baste above that mark, secure the thread, and sew a regular stitch below that mark.  It doesn't matter if you go top to bottom or bottom to top.  Once the seam is basted, tacked and stitched, check to make sure the top still lines up.  Mine lined up just fine, but pulled apart too much, so I went over the top with another row of basting stitches to make things a little more secure.  Fabric moves differently on the top than it does the bottom as it is sewn over. Fabrics like charmeuse and velvet are the most likely to move, although any fabric can.  This is why it is so important to check that things are still lining up.   

Once the seam is basted, tacked, and stitched, press using a press cloth to keep things from getting shiny and to help keep the seams underneath from showing through.

 Open up the seam and swish both main sides of the fabric to the right.  We will only be sewing through the first side of the zipper and the seam allowance.  Note the pins on the right side of the seam allowance; they are holding the fabric away from the seam so that when this first line of stitching is sewn it will not get caught.  The bottom zipper flanges are folded up and pinned out of the way only to show how the center of the seam lines up with the center of the zipper.

The needle should be a little to the inside of the zipper foot as when doing a center seam zipper.

Sew right next to the zipper coil the same way you do with a center zipper--about 1" at a time, repositioning as you go.  As long as you start near the bottom zipper stop, the exact place you start stitching doesn't really matter.  As you head toward the zipper tab, unzip the zipper.

 Here the zipper is unzipped.  Keep the coil edge right on the basted seam letting the flange lay where it will.  Secure the threads.

At the top you can see that the flange has it's little crook and no attempt is made to straighten it.  At this point it is a good idea to check to make sure the zipper tab goes up and down.  Zip the zipper up and remove the pins (on the photo's right) holding the fabric out of the way.

 

Next, put the work on a table and pull on the side of the zipper, unrolling that very small space between the center of the basted seam and where the zipper is stitched to the seam allowance. Pin securely so stray parts of fabric do not get caught in this next stitching line.

This is a drawing of what the cross section of the photo above would look like, minus the pins.

Slip the garment under the presser foot.  I have more control with the regular one, so used that instead of the zipper foot.  Your machine may be different.  Again, starting at the bottom,  Pull on the zipper in order to keep unwanted folds to a minimum as you stitch.

The tiny roll I am stitching on is a bit more visible, here.  Lower the needle and raise the presser foot to unzip the zipper.  This is so the tab does not interfere with the stitching line.  Continue to the top and secure the threads.

Flip the garment to the other side of the zipper.  Now it is time to attach the free side of the zipper to just the seam allowance.  This will not show so perfection is not required.  I use a zipper foot as one has to be able to sew around the zipper tab. 

Open up the garment and lay it flat.  It's time to mark just above the bottom zipper stop.  I put a pin through all the layers, then flip it over to the right side.

I can see the pin, so draw a chalk mark across.  This will be the bottom of the zipper.

Keeping the lining free if you are doing the lining this way (see top right) lay the garment flat and pin through all layers to make sure there are no small folds or roll overs.  Since a zipper goes in last, it might not be possible to lay it on a table, but slip something firm inside that you can press and tug over to get the fabric to lie flat for pinning.

Next, feel through the layers for the coils and mark them with pins.  Then measure them to find the one that is farthest away from the tacked seam.   An alternative is to use a zipper foot and just follow along your coil.  If you put your zipper in straight, and if your fabric is thin, this can be easier.  For thick fabrics, keep on as shown.

Here the fabric has been marked.  Then I use my fingernail to check each and every mark to be sure the coil is clear of the marks.  If even one is not, the marks need to move over a little farther until they are all clear.  Start  at the arrow and cross the coils, put the needle down and sew up toward the zipper tab along the marks.

When approaching the tab, open up the tacked seam in order to open up the zipper a bit to continue following the marks.

And this is where things went off the deep end...