Embellishment Test

Hi,  Long time, no see =)  One interstate move later, I thought it was time to post something.  Today I was testing an embellishment technique for a dress I'm currently working on.  The dress will be blue, but the test is on a pink scrap of the same kind of fabric.  I tested the same design three ways.

*Note* Always test on the actual or same type of fabric.  

*Note* There are two kinds of embroiderers/embellishers, those who test and those who wish they had =(

I learned the hard way.

This first photo was after I did twin needle sewing with a pearl cotton thread underneath, caught in the bobbin thread.  I wasn't happy with it after washing out the stabilizer, drying it then pressing it.  I was intrigued  because this is what it looked like after I removed all the stitching and pearl cotton.  I liked the impression better than what it was with the stitching in, but, alas it wouldn't hold up to washing and drying, so I re used this fabric for test #3.

                               

Below is the second test.  Instead of twin needle stitching, I wondered if it might be better if I just used a satin stitch and embroidery hoop.  Not only was it a pain, the loops were still terribly uneven, and worse, the stabilizer with the Sharpie marker I used to trace my design just would not go away.  This is stitched with pink embroidery thread, but the green marker made it dark.  

So, on to test #3 which is the point I started to document this little fiasco.  Starting from the beginning.  Just because......

I use wash out stabilizer a lot.  I draw all over it in Sharpie marker, follow my lines, and then it all goes away.

Usually =( 

 I've tried pen (the oils stay and stain) and pencil (hard to see, tears stabilizer), and found that Sharpies, with their soft tips and solvent based ink (not water soluble!) mean they show well and, until now, have not transferred to my fabric.  This embellishment method, using the twin needle and going over itself created folds which hung onto the marker.  Ugh.  Lesson Learned; use water soluble pencil for this technique.  Not as easy to draw with, but will definitely produce a better result

Because I wanted a symmetrical design, first I marked the center line and folded the paper, then I only drew half.  Just like in grade school, I flipped it over and copied the design.  It doesn't show, but I like to use pencil so I can change things.   Tracing paper is a real bonus, here. The bleed through from the green Sharpie shows on my design since I had already traced this twice.

This is the unfolded design (top of photo, below) and the traced image in Sharpie on water soluble stabilizer (bottom of photo, below).  I just happened to grab the green Sharpie.  The color doesn't matter.

First, pin the stabilizer down (the grain of the fabric matters, make it straight on grain, and only pin near the edges for delicate silks), then the stabilizer gets basted down.  If this were a delicate fabric or any kind of silk, I would baste, by hand with large stitches, right along the design line.  Pin holes will be less noticeable, here.  But, not only is this a test, it is also polyester bridal satin which does not keep holes.  Life is good.

This shows my machine basting, with contrasting (yellow) thread which makes it easier to see and remove later.  At the top left is the two pink machine embroidery threads and at the top right is the twin needle (130/705H ZWI, 4,0/80) which is one of the wider set ones, and the cording foot.  The wide set twin needle combined with the cording foot and a really short stitch length makes the highest tuck.  I'm thinking I need a slightly lower tuck, so will be trying a slightly longer stitch length.  The top tension will need to be loosened, also, but how much will depend on your machine.  Hence the test.

The most thread breakage I get is with the twin needle and embroidery thread.  Sewers Aid, a silicone lubricant, applied to the guides above the needle solves this for me.  Some people have a hook as a guide so you might have to find a higher guide or even put a line on the spool of thread.  No matter where it is placed, it needs to be done more than once.  This stuff is getting hard to find =(

Sometimes my nicely drawn lines didn't line up after the first pass.  This design has two passes.  Continuing on smoothly produced a good result.

Note to self; keep basting stitches away from where embellishment stitching runs parallel and away from crossovers.  Those basting stitches were hard to remove.

Once the stitching was finished and basting stitches removed, it was time to get rid of the stabilizer.  It's faster to cut away what you can than to dissolve everything, so first I cut, then, it got run under really warm water and rubbed to remove the gummy bits and, especially, the bits with marker on them.  This is the point I discovered that the Sharpie was not coming out of the folds at the cross overs.   A teaspoon of chlorine bleach and a 15 minute soak got a lot of it out, but not all.  I'm so glad this was a test!  Then into the dryer, because I like to know how my work is going to behave before I put it on a dress and sell it to someone.

Here is what it looked like right out of the dryer.  Having done similar things before, I know a gentle press will make this look a whole lot better.

Much better!  More practice will get me to the point where I can use it on the dress I'm currently making, but I know the technique works, I know to use a water soluble pencil for the wash out stabilizer, and I know that this really is the effect I'm going for.

Just to show what a geek I am here is my thread collection.  When I saw I needed four silverware trays to hold most of my thread I was shocked.  People just give me thread.  I hardly ever buy it =D (oh, and that garbage about old thread being weak?  Older thread was so much better quality that even old it's still better than the stuff commonly available new.  Except Madera and Mettler metrosene.  When I need thread, this is what I buy (and, no, I don't get $ for saying that)).

Happy Sewing!